Craig McGill Fishing report - Sydney blackfish

Luderick are one of my favorite winter fish, mainly because they can usually be relied upon during even the worst shut down. This doesn’t mean that they are not available through the summer months or that they are not a worthy opponent in their own right. I use them as a stand by species because of their reliability but as a species they require a considerable degree of skill, are hard fighting and good eating.

In summer, when there are kingfish, salmon, bonito and tailor trashing the surface to foam, it can be hard to divert people’s attention to luderick.

Here’s a quick rundown on techniques and Ill finish off with my three favourite harbour luderick spots.

Genuine diehard blackfish fishermen are spread pretty thin these days. The fish themselves are still quite prolific having survived the ravages of commercial fishing and pollution a lot better than most other species. Blackfish fight well, are great to eat and are found through a range of habitats that include the most tranquil estuarine reaches to harsh ocean rock environment. They are well within reach of shore based anglers, inexpensive to set up for and are a year round proposition. According to my Grandfather they catered well to the genuine needs of families who relied on them heavily through the depression as part of their diet. They also fulfill the less legitimate needs of the egotist through their abundance.

They require specific techniques that can take considerable time to learn, but once mastered the fish flow freely.

Here’s a bit of information on tackling up for blackfish that might help short cut the initial learning curve.

The tricky bit to blackfish fishing is in the control of the rig. Light floats, long drops, wind resistant baits and lots of sinkers add up to a rig that demands constant attention. There’s two ways to go and they both have their good and bad points.

You can opt for the running float rig. This consists of a standard long stemmed blackfish float that is free to run on the line. It’s stopped a certain distance from the hook by a split shot and stopped from running all the way up the line by a ‘stopper’. The ‘stopper’ can be a piece of light string tied to the line or any one of a number of commercially produced rubber ‘stoppers’. The main criteria for a stopper is that it clamps tightly enough to the main line to stop the float sliding any further than you want it to but still must be loose enough that it can be moved up or down in order to change the depth of the drop. It must also be able to be wound through the runners, sometimes even onto the reel and cast back out again without snagging. The main advantages of this rig are that the length of the drop from the rod tip can be as short as a couple of feet and the maximum depth of the drop below the float is infinite. This makes it an easy rig to cast and can be cast further than the alternative. The disadvantage is that it is prone to tangling due to the fact that the wind resistant bait is very close to the float during the cast. It’s common with this rig for the line and bait to tangle around the float.

The alternative rig consists of a fixed float. A split shot clamped above and below the float restricts its movement up or down the line. This means that the float is fixed on the line at the full depth you are fishing. The problem with this rig is that if you are fishing deep at let’s say ten feet or more you will have that full ten feet of line hanging down from the rod tip. As you would imagine this would be difficult to handle. The big advantage with this rig is that is much less prone to tangling during the cast because the bait is so far from the float. This is the method I use most often. Obviously if you are fishing more than about twelve feet then this rig is not applicable, but this does not occur very often.

Weighting of the float is critical. Most floats consist of a thin stem with a stream lined float of either cork or foam about two thirds of the way up the stem. The float must be weighted so that the cork or foam section is under water leaving just the one third of the stem above the float showing. The float is weighted with split shot, running sinkers, strip lead around the stem of the float or a combination of all of these.

Whether conditions dictate the size and weight of the float you will use. In windy rough conditions you will need a big heavy float and in calm conditions the smaller the float the better. A quill float makes an ideal still water float.

The rods used in blackfish fishing are long and soft for a number of reasons. They are long because of the need to handle the long drop often used under the float as described above. The extra length also helps to lift the ‘belly’ out of the line when you go to strike. The term ‘Belly’ refers to an ark in the line between the rod tip and the float often created by a cross current or wind. On a long drift, the belly can become so severe that the strike only serves to lift out the belly and sometimes never reaches the float. The rod must be soft because the blackfish’s mouth and the hooks used are small. This combined with a stiff rod would pull the hook clean out of the fish’s mouth. The long rod offers the cushion needed to prevent this happening during the fish’s strong lunges.

The choice of reel is up to you. I’ve seen egg-beaters, bait casters and centrelines used successfully. Centerpins are still used on a traditional basis rather than on their practicality. If you opt for a centerpin then go for a side cast such as those made by Alvey. I use egg beaters as they offer open face casting, a fast retrieve which is important when picking up ‘belly’ before striking and the ability to feed line smoothly to the float to allow it to drift.

For the smaller river blackfish a six pound line and a no. 8 or 10 hook will suffice. The big ocean bronzies will require heavier tackle. A no. six hook would be more appropriate along with a ten or twelve pound line.

Gel spun lines are credited for their non stretch properties. There are situations when low stretch is good but not when black fishing. Non stretch lines do have a reputation for tearing hooks out of fish -- a problem already prevalent with blackfish. A compensation is the fact that gel spun lines float. This is a huge advantage when picking up ‘belly’ as it is much easier to pick up a line off the surface compared to one that has sunk, as do monofilaments. Gel spun line makes an excellent blackfish line in experienced hands holding soft rods.

Other species that might be encountered while targeting blackfish are surgeon fish and both black and silver drummer so it’s nice to have the back-up of the heavier gel spun lines as these species present a powerful adversary.

SOW AND PIGS

Big fish

Caution; Sow and pigs has a dangerous break in big seas.

This mid harbour reef is a boat spot only and fishes well on both tides although I prefer the last of the incoming.

On the outgoing tide fish on the city or upstream side of the reef and drift baits back towards the upstream face of the reef. This face drops fairly abruptly into about 25ft of water. Floats can be drifted right up to this face but be sure not to go too close as this will result in foul ups. The flow of water here usually comes down stream and then off to the western side of the reef. With practice you can use this natural drift to take your float down to the reef and then along the face to the west. To position the boat place one anchor directly upstream and a rear anchor back on the reef itself. Then pull back on the front anchor so you are about 40m from the reef.

On the incoming tide you will be fishing the eastern side of the reef. Throw your front anchor well to the east and your rear anchor on the reef. Position your boat so you are on the edge where the reef drops into the deep water to the east. Fish your drifts so that your float runs parallel down the reef edge.

WEDDING CAKE

Big fish

Safe Boat only

Both cakes used to fish well for blackies till one fell down but my preference is for the eastern cake which is the one still standing. There’s talk of rebuilding the other one so hopefully it will be back in action soon.

Anchoring accurately is critical and difficult at the cakes. You must anchor across current directly up current of the structure. You will need two sand picks and due to the soft bottom and deep water you will need to let out a lot of rope front and back.

Obviously you will have to anchor upstream on the outgoing and downstream on the incoming. Position yourself directly up current of the structure. Find the drift that takes your float to the centre of the cake. By careful manipulation of your line you can then manoeuvre your float to drift down to the cake then along its face and finally around the sides.

THE SPIT

Smaller fish on average with potential for bigger fish

Safe

Shore based only due to Waterways anchoring restrictions On the Mosman side of the bridge on the upstream side there is a retaining wall that fishes very well but gets crowded.

The water rips hard through the Spit but luckily it eddied around the point creating a good drift. Best fished on the last of the run in and first of the run out.

On the other side of the bridge on the downstream side is a long, deep and rocky shoreline which offers easy access an good fishing. Both tides work well with a preference for the outgoing.

This spot is less crowded which is good because the best method of fishing this spot is to drop your float in, upstream, and walk down with it, letting it run parallel to the shore.